Pan Magazine has moved...

Check us out here.

Book Review - The Art of Scottish-American Cooking

The Art of Scottish-American Cooking
Kay Shaw Nelson
Pelican Publishing Company
298 pages

Although this cookbook doesn’t contain any pictures, you will have a little Scottish grandmother in your mind before getting to page 10.

Comfort foods that have fed many generations can now make their way onto your table.

And although you might not know what Rumbledthumps are (essentially potatoes, cabbage and cheese), it might be just the thing that changes the way you cook and eat.

A lot of the recipes here are full of hearty ingredients like oats, potatoes, meats and seafood and in a world where light and diet ingredients have taken over our lives, it’s kind of fun to think about heavier, heartier dishes.

I had a great great grandmother who was Scottish but she died well before I was born. I am hoping that by embracing some of Scotland’s traditional dishes, I can carry on the family tradition.

And plus, how much fun will it be at my next dinner party to announce that the next course will be Rumbledthumps?

- Stephanie

Book Review - A Gringo's Guide to Authentic Mexican Cooking

A Gringo's Guide to Authentic Mexican Cooking

Mad Coyote Joe
Northland Publishing
142 pages

Okay, so when the author has a name like Mad Coyote Joe, you know you're in for a good time.

The television host and author of The Sonoron Grill has brought some of Mexico's most exciting dishes to the page and has some valid points about North America's take on the cuisine of the South. On Burritos, Enchiladas and Quesadillas he writes:

"This is where American-style Mexican food gets really ugly. The worst, by far, has to be the convenience-store microwave burrito. First of all, what is that filling from? It sort of looks like some kind of meat substance with a gelantinous spicy gravy, but I've never met anyone who knows for sure."

I love a cookbook writer with a sense of humour. And doesn't that make you feel more at ease tackling tamales for the first time?

This festive, colourful book is filled with the basic ingredients and terms so if you're a novice at making Huevos con Machaca (Eggs with Dried Beef) or Caldo de Mariscos (Seafood Soup), not to worry. Mad Coyote Joe wrote easy-to-follow instructions and before you know it, you'll be rolling your r's and pronouncing the Veracruz Red Snapper like an expert.

It's Huachango a la Veracruzano, by the way.

- Stephanie

Book Reviews - Vegetarian Cookbooks by Nava Atlas

Vegetarian Soups for all Seasons: Bountiful Vegan Soups and Stews for Every Time of Year - the updated edition, now dairy-free and featuring 20 new recipes

The Vegetarian Family Cookbook

The Vegetarian 5-Ingredient Gourmet: 250 Simple Recipes and Dozens of Healthy Menus for Eating Well Every Day

All by Nava Atlas

One of my favourite cookbook authors is Nava Atlas. She writes tasty recipes that are good for you and don't take much time or effort at all. That is hard to do and she does it extremely well!

She's had a ton of experience, as these are not her first books, and each one gets better and better!

You do not have to be a vegetarian to appreciate them and in fact, I think they are a great accompaniment to any cookbook collection because they all contain incredibly healthy food. You do not have to sift through each recipe searching for something that's good for you. It's ALL good for you. I just love that!

The Vegetarian Family Cookbook is a thick tome featuring more than 275 quick recippes for quick breakfasts, healthy snacks and lunches, classic comfort foods, hearty main dishes, wholesome baked goods, to name just a few.

There are also options for vegans throughout, but I'm neither and I have picked out a whole bunch of favourite dishes that I think might just become your favourites too. Like Mexican Green Rice, Vegetable Upside-Down Casserole, Mixed Mushrooms Stroganoff and Cincinnati Chili Mac. And Nava offers different variations on the dish, so you can change it up and keep it interesting.

In The Vegetarian 5-Ingredient Gourmet, you can eat well and quickly, which is what we're all craving these days. There's emails to answer, meetings to ruch off to and have you ever tried to cook during house hunting? It's a nightmare!

But with Nava's guide in hand, you can make simple meals that will satisfy everyone at the table. How about White Pizza Florentine, Barbecue-Flavoured Baked Beans and Red Onion and Almond-Stuffed Winter Squash?

There's 247 more of them. Isn't that exciting?!

And if you are a soup freak like me, you'll love Nava's Vegetarian Soups for all Seasons filled with 120 soups and stews. And as an extra bonus, she's included breads, muffins and scones like Quick Sunflower-Cheese Bread, Onion-Rye Scones and Scallion Pancakes.

Oh my!

And the soups? Devine, delicious and so ready to be devoured! There are so many that it might take you months to get to them all. Next on my list to make are Okra-Rice Gumbo, Red Bean Puree with Zucchini and Sweet-and-Sour Cabbage and Bread Stew.

When I see a Nava Atlas cookbook, I know I'm getting a book filled with scrumptious dishes that will transform my regular meal routines.

These are just three of her books.

You’re going to want all of them and the rest of her collection too.

- Stephanie

Book Review - Simply Salads

Simply Salads
Jennifer Chandler
Thomas Nelson Publishers
272 pages
$30.99 CDN

I love salad more than anything but I find it hard to think outside the box and really get creative with them.

Thank goodness for Jennifer Chandler.

She has created a book filled with over 100 recipes that are made from packaged greens and “a few easy-to-find ingredients.” It is also beautifully photographed so you get a real sense of what it should look like – always helpful when assembling a salad, I think.

The book is divided into succinct sections – greens, poultry, meat, seafood, vegetables, fruit, beans/grains/rice/pasta, slaws and vinaigrettes and dressings – so you can find what you’re looking got quickly.

Jennifer gives you a list for what to stock in your kitchen in order to make salads. The list includes basic kitchen utensils, pantry items and perishable and refrigerator items, so you can be sure that you will have what you need on hand when making your salad.

I am excited to add these new salads to my roster of usual suspects. I would have never come up with these on my own, like:

Southern Caesar Salad (with grits croutons)
Jalapeno Chicken Salad with Avocado Dressing
Grilled Lamb and Tabbouleh Salad
Lobster Salad with Grapefruit Vinaigrette
Crawfish Salad with Spicy Cajun Remoulade

So tonight, I am going to leave my Italian mixed greens with carrots behind and try something completely different.

I can’t wait.

- Stephanie

Book Review - Food Play

Food Play
Saxton Freymann and Joost Elffers
Chronicle Books
320 pages
$21.95 CDN

This is the perfect gift for the surrealist and food lover in your life.

A fun, playful look at how food can be transformed into familiar faces and places in 350 ways, you may never look at an orange or beet the same way again.

It's the kind of thing that you really have to experience because it's so oddly fascinating that there aren't sufficient words to describe what you're about to see - a radish cat, aliens from red peppers the cutest little mushroom people.

Like the Surrealist Gourmet, you are in for a visual treat. You may just have to wait an hour before eating. The screaming orange stays with you.

- Stephanie

Book Review - Real Women Eat Chiles

Real Women Eat Chiles
Jane Butel
Northland Publishing
194 pages
$21.95 US

The title doesn't do the book justice. It's filled with the history of chiles along with women's stories of how chiles have impacted their lives.

Chiles are so good for you (see pages 13 and 15) and you can get everything from mild to tears streaming down your face varieties.

For the secrets of cooking with chiles, there is a whole section to help you unravel the mysteries. And then my favourite part, the recipes. And they're good ones - Black Bean and Goat Cheese Chalupitas; Spicy Beef and Potato Salad with Hot Red Chile Dressing, Lamb Chops with Jalapeno Jelly and Chile-Seared Salmon with Sweet Pear Pineapple Salsa.

The recipes are easy to follow and most involve few ingredients. These are recipes that you can actually use. And these are dishes that you can have on the table quickly.

There are plenty of full-page colour photos to feast your eyes on and make you hungry, but you'll be most excited about making sumptuous meals that are easy to prepare. But don't worry - your secret is safe with us.

- Stephanie

Book Review - Food Finds: America's Best Local Foods and the People Who Produce Them

Food Finds: America's Best Local Foods and the People Who Produce Them
Allison Engel and Margaret Engel
Paperback
Quill/HaperCollins Canada
480 pages
$27.50 CDN

Usually I review sparkling new books, but I just had to tell you about this one, last published in 2000 .

It is the perfect accompaniment for a food lover. Small companies that produce their own food. They are American companies, so the products probably aren't that familiar. As well, many of these products are based on family recipes and the places so small that many don't have websites and don't accept credit cards (though cheques are okay!). It is great fun and quaint all at once.

You can find everything from natural barrel dill pickles to Moxie soda pop and Loveless Motels Hams and Jams. This incredibly comprehensive book has every category that will satisfy your cravings - breads and crackers, dessert sauces, meat, soups and chilis along with many others. This is something that you'll be going through for some time. You might even want to make it into a road trip.

My beloved and I might make the drive to search out salt water taffy and State of Maine Beans. Or maybe we'll hit all the pretzels, chips and popcorn makers. I love the discovery of new foods and American products have such a distinct flavour and sensibility that I can't wait to expand my food knowledge and palate.

And I promise to tell you everything upon my return!

- Stephanie

Cookbook Winners

Hi Folks,

Just want to remind you to check in every Monday for a new cookbook or food book review. In the meantime, here are some recent winners to check out.

Have a great weekend!

- Stephanie

IACP AWARD WINNERS 2007

Cookbook of the Year:
What to Drink with What you Eat by Andrew Dornenburg & Karen Page

Best American Cookbook:
The Lee Brothers Southern Cookbook by Matt Lee & Ted Lee

Best Bread, Baking and Sweets Cookbook:
Bread Matters by Andrew Whitley

Best Chefs and Restaurants Cookbook:
Allegra McEvedy’s Colour Cookbook by Allegra McEvedy

Best Compilation:
All New Complete Cooking Light Cookbook Anne C. Cain, editor

Best First Book:
The Lee Brothers Southern Cookbook by Matt Lee & Ted Lee

Best Food Reference/Technical Book: (tied)
Modern Garde Manger by Robert Garlough & Angus Campbell
The Spice and Herb Bible by Ian Hemphill

Best General Cookbook:
The Improvisational Cook by Sally Schneider

Best Health and Special Diet Cookbook:
Lunch Lessons:Changing the way we feed our children
by Ann Cooper & Lisa M. Holmes

Best International Cookbook:
Cradle of Flavor by James Oseland

Best Literary Food Writing:
My Life in France by Julia Child & Alex Prud’homme

Best Single Subject Cookbook:
A Passion for Ice Cream by Emily Luchetti

Best Wine, Beer or Spirits Book:
What to Drink with What you Eat by Andrew Dornenburg & Karen Page

The Design Award:
Au Pied de Cochon by Martin Picard & Jean-Francois Boily

The Jane Grigson Award:
Memories of Philippine Kitchens by Amy Besa & Romy Dortan

Best Food Photography and Styling:
Simple Chinese Cooking by Kylie Kwong

Book Review - Cookie Sensations

Cookie Sensations: Creative Designs for Every Occasion

by Meaghan Mountford
Paperback
Thomas Nelson
128 pages
$19.99 US

If you’ve ever wanted to make cookies but don’t know how or want to improve the way that you make cookies forever, this is the book for you.

Filled with easy-to-follow advice like Chapter 3: “Your Dough and Frosting: The Bare Essentials” and how to make specific colours of icing like baby yellow – “a couple of drops of Egg Yellow and a few drops of White,” you can start out being a novice and end up a cookie expert.

With colour charts, photo illustrations and fun shapes like horses and pigs on “Down on the Farm” (page 59) and little lavender footprints for “Aww… Baby” (p. 65), you might just find yourself looking for an excuse to make more cookies.

And for me, there is nothing better than spending a Sunday afternoon or evening after supper making cookies to take to your friends, neighbours and coworkers. Of course if you just want to eat ‘em all yourself, that’s okay too.

- Stephanie

Great Cookbooks That Have Caught Our Eye

The editors would like to thank Gibbs Smith and Pelican Publishing for sending us such great books to review and share.

Books reviewed by Stephanie Dickison. To send your book for review to pan magazine, contact us here.

101 Things To Do With a Dutch Oven

Vernon Winterton

Gibbs Smith

© 2006

I had no idea the wealth of possibility of the Dutch Oven. Did you know that not only can you make soups, sauces and stews, but you can make Cheery Pie, Corn on the Cobm Cinnamon Rolls, Breakfast Pizza, Potato Bread, Stuffed Pork Roast, Manicotti and White-Chocolate-Caramel Pecan Cheesecake, to name just a few dazzling options?

It seems to be from this wonderfully well-written gem with simple recipes that we should all be using our Dutch Oven in our everyday cooking if we aren’t already, and if you don’t know what a Dutch Oven is or how to use one, then this book is a must. It might very well change your cooking and thus, change your life!

(Other good book in the “101 Things To Do With” series is the Salad book by Melissa Barlow and Stephanie Ashcraft and the Yogurt one by Geneva Stringham)

Harry’s Roadhouse Cookbook: Square Meals From Sante Fe’s Favourite Kitchen

Harry Shapiro and Peyton Young

Gibbs Smith

© 2006

A delightfully playful cookbook from the owners of Sante Fe’s Harry’s Roadhouse offers traditional Mexican meals that use green chiles and peppers, roasted corn, tortillas, salsas and plantains but with their own personal (and modern) twist – Smoked Duck Flautas with Mango Sauce, Indian Shrimp Fritters, Chile Corn Chowder, Caramalized Figs with Prosciutto and Hazelnuts, Roadhouse-Style Pulled Pork, Wild Rice Pancakes,Tomato Corn Biscuit Pie, Pollo Pibil and Chicken Pot Pie.

The sections are colour-coded for quick look ups, which I really appreciate. Desserts, Breakfast, Appetizers, Salads, Square Meals and Sides can all be accessed quickly and easily making it a great cookbook for use during the week when you want to get dinner on the table quickly or lingering over on a Saturday afternoon, setting up a menu for a dinner party of six or an intimate dinner for two.

This is a book with a lot of heart and tasty recipes that work year round.

Family Dinners: Easy Ways to Feed Your Kids and Get Them Talking At the Table

Janet Peterson

Gibbs Smith

© 2006

It is hard to sit down as a family these days, and even harder to get everyone to eat the same thing, but thanks to Family Dinners, you can prepare quick and easy meals that the whole family with enjoy and hopefully make memories along the way.

There are time-saving tips alongside ways to improve family mealtime. And the recipes are truly family friendly!

Want your kids to eat more vegetables? Ham & Vegetable soup is a great choice.

Is it hard to make salads fun? Not anymore, thanks to Lemon Pie and Layered Vegetable Salads.

French Dip sandwiches turn beef into a treat, Hawaiian Barbeque Chicken has the kids chanting for more and Sour Cream Tuna Casserole brings the family around on seafood.

This vintage-y feeling book is going to be as essential as your Joy of Cooking and other must-haves on the cookbook shelf.

Three Guys From Miami Celebrate Cuban: 100 Great Recipes for Cuban Entertaining

Glenn Lindgren, Raúl Musibay and Jorge Castillo

Gibbs Smith

© 2006

One of my favourite foods is Cuban, but sadly, there just isn’t enough of it. Thank goodness for this incredibly fun book that celebrates both the cuisine and spirit of Cuba to satiate my appetite!

If you hanker for boniatos, empanadas, culantro (not to be confused with cilantro), picadillo, croquetas and moros y cristianos, this is the book for you.

And if you have no idea what I’m talking about, you really need this book.

Celebrate Cuban is what I consider a must-have for any food lover.

Vintage Restaurant: Handcrafted Cuisines from a Sun Valley Favourite

Jeff Keys

Gibbs Smith

© 2006

I love that they call it handcrafted, because it gives you a real sense of the dishes in this gorgeous book that if you tell your friends about, will never make it back to your kitchen shelf.

A little blend of French and a little bit of Western cuisine makes for some sumptuous dishes with heirloom vegetables and in-season ingredients and sections about the lost art of great soup and the art of cold smoking.

You will wow friends and neighbours with these simple to prepare dishes that seem too sophisticated for home cooked meals like Spicy Pork Loin Chop with Sweet Corn and Cheddar Cheese Polenta and Rock Shrimp, Fresh Sage, and Smoked Pork Sausage Gravy and Chocolate Chunk Bread Pudding with Steam Whiskey Sabayon Sauce.

See? It’s absolutely incredible.

And yes, you can borrow my copy. You’re just going to have to leave a little collateral is all. Yep, your car should do.

For now.

The Turkish Dining Table: Recipes for Health and Happiness

H. Güler Vural

Pelican Publishing

© 2006

I think we all have food ruts that we fall into – basic recipes that we prepare over and over again, not for lack of food but lack of ingenuity and perceived time and energy.

It is books like The Turkish Dining Table that really livens things up. With recipes such as Mint Soup and Bosnian Ravioli, it is impossible not to smile at the new flavours and possibilities.

And one of the unexpected pleasures of this colourful, easy-to-follow book is that there is an entire section on healthy eating and cooking, due to Mrs. Vural being hypoglycemic (meaning having an abnormally low level of sugar in the blood).

This book is a great education about Turkish food and a healthy way to eat in general.

Esalen Cookbook

Charlie Cascio

Gibbs Smith

© 2006

If you can’t make it to the world-renowned Esalen Institute (located on cliffs above the Pacific Ocean in Big Sur, California), you can at least bring the kitchen with you.

The food made daily from the organic farm on its grounds is not only good for you, but tastes incredible. And is very in line with the Institute’s principles:

“Esalen Institute is a non-profit organization devoted to the exploration of human potential. As a retreat center where people live and work in a communal setting, Esalen residents and guests participate in an incredible variety of alternative education and personal growth programs in subjects such as meditation, massage, yoga psychology, ecology, spirituality, art, music, and much more.”

Soulful dishes like Moroccan Lamb Stew and Pecan-Encrusted Chicken satisfy both your waistline and your appetite. And the well-photographed food continues to entice with recipes such as Artichoke, Yam and Blue Cheese Scones, Leek-and-Onion Tart and Sweet-and-Spicy Breakfast Polenta.

And it’s all presented in an easy-to-follow layout illustrated with gorgeous photos.

A wonderful book filled with good food that will do your body and your spirit good. It doesn’t get much better than that.

Southwest Flavours: Sante Fe School of Cooking

Susan Curtis and Nicole Curtis Ammerman

Gibbs Smith

© 2006

Have you always wanted to make New Mexican and Southwestern meals but been intimated by the recipes or methods?

This book breaks down the equipment you need, ingredients used and even frequently asked questions about these cuisines.

Beautifully photographed food alongside easy-to-follow recipes make this big book a must-have for anyone wanting to make authentic dishes with little effort.

There are wonderful mouth-watering dishes like White Bean & Smoked Chile Salad, Jicama & Carrot Slaw with Lime Vinagrette and Seafood Brochettes with Toasted Fennel Seed Vinagrette. And if that doesn’t do it for you, how about Smoked Chile Mussels, Anchiote Citrus Chicken in Banana Leaf and Flourless Chocolate Torte?

School is in session and it’s never tasted so good.

(You can also get the Sante Fe School of Cooking Salsas and Tacos, which is a nice accompaniment and also features more options for Taco Night than you could possibly imagine.)

Faster! I’m Starving! – 100 Dishes in 25 Minutes or Less

Kevin and Nancy Mills

Gibbs Smith

© 2006

I know that some people who like to cook don’t like these kinds of books that focus on speed and quick meal preparation, but I think that in today’s frenetic world where emails abound and weekends are for catching up on work, these kinds of books can be a saviour.

With sections on “Techniques Geared for Speed,” “Helpful Equipment” and “Emergency Meals,” you are bound to come away with some methods of speeding up your prep time that surely we can all use from time to time.

I especially liked the quick recipes for Southwest-Style Falafel, Short-Cut Beef Bourguignon, Easy Veal Chops, Roast Beef in 20 minutes, Indian Fried Rice and Chile Rellenos Mini Casseroles.

You may want to spend hours basting Cornish game hens but sometimes a quick dinner is all that you can manage. This book will help you prepare a quick and nutritious meal and allow you to do what you need to do. If only the office could be this easy!

The New Orleans Program: Eat, Exercise and Enjoy Life!

David A. Newsome, M.D., and Chef John Besh

Pelican Publishing

© 2006

Now here’s a book that I’m excited about. These authors describe a lifestyle that includes eating and exercise, yes, all while consuming such luxurious dishes as Belle River Crawfish Salad and Shrimp and Chicken Jambalaya. There are some restrictions like no fries, snacks like chips or candy or desserts, but the meals themselves seem to make up for it. For example, doesn’t Soupe De Poisson with Spicy Rouille sound good? And do you still want fried chicken? Just make it their way on page 192. Apparently you can still eat well and feel good!

I haven’t done the program myself, but it’s tempting. And this isn’t just a cookbook. There is a lot of nutritional information contained in these pages, so if you want to know the difference between good and bad fats, your fat intake and even exercises to help you live better, you can find it all here.

An interesting book for those tired of traditional diet methods.

Cristina’s of Sun Valley

Cristina Ceccatelli

Gibbs Smith

© 2006

With over 145 photographs, this book features recipes from Cristina’s Restaurant, a “charming European-style bistro on a small street in the world-famous ski resort town of Sun Valley.”

It is a real delight for the senses and a great foray into the foods of rural Tuscany, where Cristina grew up.

Highlights include Breakfast Gnocchi, Tortellini with Cream & Saffron Sauce and Shrimp & Mango Salad with Citrus-Champagne Dressing.

Fiesta on the Grill

Daniel Hoyer

Gibbs Smith

© 2006

Books about barbequing usually bore me. One, because I don’t have one, and two, because the books on grilling often offer dull recipes that don’t take much thought and/or effort.

That is, until now.

Like a world party, Daniel Hoyer has finally made grilling fun with dishes inspired from the New World, Latin America, the Caribbean and the American Southwest!

He not only includes exciting dry rubs and marinades (Mojo and Cracked Pepper-Coriander-Lavender Rub), smoking recipes and salsas and sauces (Charred Cherry or Pear Tomato Salsa and Cilantro-Pumpkinseed Pesto), but the proper techniques for roasting chiles and types of fuel to grill with.

So not only can you now make Lamp Chop Anovada and Tuna Steaks with Anchiote Citrus Glaze but you will be able to expertly grill and barbeque just like the pros!

A must-have for those wanting to tackle the grill with ease and those who crave bright dishes bursting with flavour!

Carlos’ Contemporary Fresh Cuisine

Debbie and Carlos Nieto with Arlene Michlin Bronstein and Ken Bookman

Gibbs Smith

© 2006

Although I have been cooking both professionally and for fun for 20 years now, making French food still intimidates me.

But Carlos of Carlos’ restaurant in Highland Park, Illinois has created a cookbook that is perfect for people like me. Although the photos illustrate incredibly well-crafted works of art, when I look at the recipes I feel confidant that I can make the described dish.

That’s a first.

And now I am tackling dishes like Lamb Gateau with Ratatouille, Wilted Spinach, and Garlic Puree and Prosciutto Celeriac Terrine with ease.

Guess who’s place is popular at dinnertime? Come on by and I’ll share my Lobster Soufflé with Lobster-Tomato Sauce.

Thank you Carlos, wherever you are. I am a French food fiend now.

Historic Cookery

Fabiola C. Gilbert

Ancient City Press

© 1970

Every cook has basic books that they refer to often. Usually these books are splattered with soups and gravies and the corners bent and torn, but they are well-used and immensely loved.

If you love New Mexican food or want to learn more about making basic dishes properly, this is the book for you.

Written in a simplistic style with very short ingredient lists and instructions, you will be able to master New Mexican cooking in a very short time.

Want to know how to make Tamales, Pozole, Frijoles and Estifado (Sweet Stew)? This is where to make it from.

And like Fabiola says,

“Try the recipes. And when you do, think of New Mexico’s golden days, of red chile drying in the sun, of clean-swept-yards, outdoor ovens, and adobe houses on the landscape. Remember the green valleys where good things grow. And think too of families sitting happily at the tables, because good food and good cheer are natural compadres and because, as the Spanish proverb says, a full stomach makes a happy man. Buen provecho, amigos.”

Sierra Mar Cookbook

Craig Von Foerster

Gibbs Smtih

© 2006

The Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur, California is a big beautiful place and the same can be said for the oversize, coffee table cookbook.

Rich in text and photos, this cookbook offers fine cuisine that you can actually make without too much ado.

Recipes like Hoisin-Grilled Quail Shitake Mushroom Potsticker, Peanuts and Plum Sauce and Golden Tomato Thai Gazpacho utilize ingredients like Heirloom Tomatoes and local fare that help bring out the extraordinary flavours of these dishes. There are flavours from around the world in these recipes – Asian, French and Mediterranean, to mention just a few.

The recipes are quite short for such fine food and a real treat to try. And while your creations may not look as fantastic on the plate as Craig’s, the book’s photos offer real inspiration for presentation and before long, you’ll be plating your food with as much ease and grace as Craig.

Throughout the book, there are Chef Notes which are fun and a lovely personal extra that really gives this book heart and also offer extremely helpful tips like how to tie a fish round.

Although this book would not have been one that I would have normally sought out (it’s so big and fancy looking), I am grateful for finding it because it is now on my cookbook shelf and is poised and ready for the next dinner I make.

I can’t wait.

The Cookin’ Cajun Cooking School Cookbook: Creole and Cajun Cuisine From the Heart of New Orleans

Lisette Verlander and Susan Murphy

Gibbs Smith

© 2006

The Cajun/Creole food of New Orleans is often praised and written about. It is a distinct cuisine and often is not deftly replicated in restaurants. That’s why I think it’s important to add to your range of talents because there is nothing like a good Filé Gumbo, Beignets, Étouffée, Pecan Butter Sauce, Rémoulade Sauce and Crayfish Bisque.

This little softcover won’t take up much room on your shelf, but it’s contents will be of utmost value like when you want to make Rockefeller Sauce and Roast Turkey, Cajun Style.

I believe that Cajun and Creole dishes and flavours are vital to a cook’s repertoire, and this is the perfect little book to learn the basics of New Orleans cooking.

Small Plates: Appetizers as Meals

Marguerite Marceau Henderson

Gibbs Smith

© 2006

A great size with lots of pictures, this book is going to be one that you’re constantly pulling off your shelf.

As you must know by now, small plates, sometimes called tapas, are huge in restaurants right now. This kind of eating allows the diner to try many different kinds of food in small amounts.

This book really expands on the idea of small plates, so it’s not just olives and tomato salad offerings. These are hearty meals – just smaller portions.

With just about every other page filled with a photograph, you can really get an idea of what to serve at your next dinner party or if you want to make something for a late night snack.

This book really changed my idea of what a small plate can be – check these ideas out – Lamb Riblets with Minty Red Wine Sauce, Seared Salmon with Leek-Carrot Sauce, Louisiana Sweet Potato and Sausage Stew and Tourtiere.

What a fun way to cook – appetizers as meals. It’s a great new way to think about dinner. Only one question remains: What are you going to make tonight?

Culinary Mexico: Authentic Recipes and Traditions

Daniel Hoyer

Gibbs Smith

© 2006

Now that winter is upon is, it is not only time for comfort foods and heavy dishes, but piquant flavours and all of the sweet, sour and savoury tastes that we are craving. Or at least I am, anyway.

That’s why I’m so exited about this book. Pineapple Vinegar. Baja-Style Fish Tacos. Coconut Ice Cream and Peanut and Chipotle Cream Soup. The vibrant flavours are so exciting! And with great photos, you can really get a sense of what a dish can look like, if you aren’t familiar with it already.

And this book takes cuisines from various regions like the Yucatán Peninsula, the states of Tabasco, Oaxaca and Veracruz, as well as many other places, so you really get a wide range of dishes like Corn Turnovers with Fresh Garbanzo or Squash-Bottom Filling and Baked Gouda Cheese Stuffed with Spiced Meat alongside Durango-Style Beef Stew and Cowboy-Style Beans.

This is one book that you’re not going to want to miss out on.

Venturing Out

This past week I had to go to areas around town that I don't get to very often.

Like most people, I like to venture out to new places, but with the time demands of writing and reviewing restaurants, errands and social events, I keep to my local places and venture out only on weekends when time allows or I'm heading to the area as a destination.

This week, I had the pleasure of rediscovering Church Street and Bloor West Village.

Church is somewhere that I like and know, but rarely get to. I hadn't been in years and I couldn't believe how much it changed. I also couldn't believe the wealth of amazing food stores.

Cumbrae's is something of a legend in the city for having superb farm-raised meats and handmade foods. I was window-shopping before reviewing a restaurant in the area and just walking into the beautiful store made my mouth water.

And then just across the street is Reither's Fine Food International - 416-961-3892 - where you can get a huge mini meat loaf dressed a number of delectable ways for only $4.99! There are incredible prepared foods along with interesting products from around the world. I found seasoning for a liver and bacon plate, curry ketchup and many cookies, crackers, jams, cheeses, meats, chocolates and grocery items to please any food lover!

Two days later I found myself in Bloor West Village where I picked up almond tarts for our neighbours, packaged soups (check out my blog about the soups here) for myself and a lovely book author whom I interviewed earlier this year and tours to such an extent that she often isn't allowed much time to eat, sliced leg of lamb for sandwiches (my new favourite find!) from Max's - 2299 Bloor Street West 416-766-6362 - and some incredible chocolates that wowed the crowd last night from a deli right at Runnymede and Bloor.

It was so great to rediscover these pockets of the city and I highly recommend it.

I know you are swamped with parties and lunches, shopping and wrapping, but take just an hour or two and walk through an area you haven't visited for awhile. It is just the thing you need at this time of year. And you won't come home empty handed. There is so much incredible food to be had in the city. Go have at it!

- Stephanie

Surprising Savings at the St. Lawrence Market

I am of the belief that the Market can be pretty pricey. Although my Dad and I go just about every Saturday, we like to shop downstairs at Domino's and rarely spend more than a few dollars.

But all the stuff that I really like is usually a good chunk of change. Now you're getting amazing product for your money, so don't think I'm complaining. It's just I can't afford to grocery shop there.

Until last Saturday.

I don't know what made everything so inexpensive, but check out what I got:

From the Farmer's Market

1 pint of yellow beans - $1.00
1 pint of brussel sprouts - $0.50
1 pint of snow peas - $1.00
1 romaine lettuce - $1.00
1 absurdly huge kale - $1.00

From the Other Side

2 "Weekend" Organic Sprout Salads - $5.00 (in total)
6 fresh smelt - $1.34
1 chipotle mayonnaise - $1.99
1 fresh salmon steak enough for 3 - $12.63

Other than the salmon, it was crazy cheap!

Total = $25.46
Experience = priceless

- Stephanie

Steam Whistle Rocks All Year Round!

I recently had the opportunity to try the Steam Whistle Holiday Pack, which is not only filled with your favourite 12 bottles of beer, but comes in a convient box with handle that you pull up from within (great design, fellas!) and a handy gift tag label should your box be for someone else (What a good friend you are!).

You know, this holiday season, we're all lugging bottles of wine back and forth to various dinner and office parties, but don't you find yourself wishing for a clean, refreshing beer at these functions? From now on, I'm only heading out with the Steam Whistle holiday pack.

It just makes sense.

(this is not a paid advertisement, just my opinion)

- Stephanie

Loblaws - Can You Believe It?

Toronto is one of the best food cities in the world. At any given time, whatever area you are in, there is a bevy of cuisines available - Japanese, Thai, Indian, Italian. And if you feel like making pad thai or beef with chinese broccoli, you can pick up the ingredients at your local grocery store.

What a wonderful world.

And it keeps getting better. I get my fruit and veggies at my local f&v stand (and on the weekends, I pick up a few goodies at either the Kensington or St. Lawrence Market), but recently I have been getting a few things at my neighbourhood Loblaws.

After searching for years for an accessible place to buy Meyer lemons, Loblaws had a bag of 5 for $2.49! I was thrilled. I went home and stuffed pork chops with slices of lemon, sauteed mushrooms and fresh basil leaves, drizzled it with lemon juice and olive oil and stuck it in the oven with baby potatoes. I served it with a hearty stuffing and purple broccoli and we couldn't get enough of it. Now I'm thinking I'll make some shrimp and lemon pasta (with fresh basil or maybe dill) on the weekend - fresh and summery for this time of year, exactly what we need!!

Last night I went back into Loblaws to pick up some snacks for a get together we were having later - they have a great selection and wonky choices like Tomato Pretz from I think Hong Kong, and things like fragrant Onion Rings and Shrimp Sticks.

On my way to the bakery for something sweet, I passed by a container of cherry sized heirloom tomatoes of every colour - yellow, orange, red, dark purple and green - $3.99! I would have snapped up one or two, but I had yellow tomatoes from the market waiting for me at home.

A couple of weeks ago, a similarily colourful bunch appeared at the end of the onion aisle - a bag of mini potatoes - red, white, brown and purple - for only $1.99.

While it's not just multi-coloured collections that I'm after, I am so excited about my trips to Loblaws now, because who knows what I'll find and come home with!

- Stephanie

Season of food

It's the season of lots of food, particularly if you celebrate Christmas. Sweets, shortbreads, candy canes, big meals, parties (by the way, isn't December the time you're supposed to get a rest? why doesn't it ever work out that way?)

Anyway, now that it's cold just about everywhere in the country, we can turn on our ovens and set to roasting and baking. Back at Thanksgiving, my mother showed up with two pepper squashes, and as happens sometimes, it sat in my vegetable bowl for almost two months before I decided what to do with it. It started turning from a deep green to a bright orange, so I figured I better act fast if I wanted to try this lovely vegetable. When I cut it open (not easy, it was huge, and very, very hard), every thing looked fresh, so I got to work. I love squash, but I find pepper squash's flavour and texture need to be enhanced just a little. So here's what I finally did last night.

Roast Pepper Squash

1 large pepper squash, halved and seeded
2 tbsp brown sugar
2 tbsp butter
salt & pepper
2 tbsp maple syrup

Lay the squash halves cut side up on a baking sheet. Sprinkle brown sugar over both halves, put one tablespoon of butter into the hollow of each half, then sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Cover the squash tightly with foil, then bake in a preheated 400F oven for 1 - 1.5 hours, or until soft.

There will be a fair amount of liquid in the hollows of the squash -- pour that into a bowl, then scoop out the flesh into the same bowl (make sure you're using oven mitts here!!). Add the maple syrup (I believe that more is better), and mash well. Mash with a potato masher or puree with a stick blender (I like it to be just a little lumpy, but if you like a smoother texture, you could even put it in a food processor or blender). Serves 4-6.



FYI -- I had this with roasted chicken breasts (skin on, bone-in -- much better flavour) and roasted potatoes and carrots. -- CG

Gourmet Food & Wine Expo

Hi Folks,

We're gearing up here at pan for issue # 1, so be on the lookout! If you wish to be emailed an announcement, please email stephanie@panmagazine.ca.

In the meantime, I thought I'd tell you about the Gourmet Food & Wine Expo that took place this weekend at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre. Although it seemed smaller than previous years, some of the finds were worth the trip:

La Casa Del Habano, fine makers of Cuban cigars in Yorkville, has a Cuban cigar rolling demonstation with a lovely man who made the most exquisite cigars I've ever seen (and I've seen them first hand on the streets of Cuba). It was fascinating to learn about the layers of leaves, the quotas that the rollers must adhere to and the people who make them.

Aqua Bar has a unique booth - it was filled with just bottled water! The most interesting was the pricey BLING water ($30 for a small bottle), whose bottle is encrusted with Swarovski crystals (Holt Renfrew is carrying it in case you feel the need for ice).

And yes, some of the food and wine were good too. I had venison ribs, eggplant pasta, sushi and oysters from Rodney's. I had a $50/bottle glass of Cabernet that was lovely, a Niagara Blonde beer (I see it becoming a serious contender in the market this year) and the most refreshing grapefruit sake cooler that can only be ordered by the case from Japan. I'm thinking maybe 2 cases would tide me over until the holidays...

I know it's too late to go to the Expo now, but keep it in mind for next year. There's also a lot of confectionary and condiment goodies to be had at the One of a Kind show this week, so there's still time for that.

And Chris and I will be getting you our year's favourite gadgets, ingredients and the like soon, so stay tuned for more great food news!

- Stephanie

Looking for An Avocado Peeler?

I've been researching kitchen gadgets for the upcoming issue and just came across a great Canadian site - KitchenNiche - that I thought you might want to check out. I am intrigued by the avacado peeler and impressed with their selection of lemon and garlic presses. They also have gourmet food, pepper mills and a salt pig (you'll have to see it for yourself!) in case gadgets aren't your thing.

It is wonderful to find more Canadian cooking sites to access and I will let you know of any others that I come across!

In the meantime, happy cooking!

- Stephanie

What to do with Jack-o...

It was a lousy weekend, but in amongst all the work I had to do, I tried to scrounge an adequate pumpkin to carve for Halloween. No luck. And it’s a shame because pumpkin carving is a long and proud tradition in my family, going at least back to my grandfather. Sadly, all my neighbours had plucked the best ones, some of them starting their collections as early as mid-September. Further evidence that Halloween rivals Christmas as a holiday – you can’t wait until the last minute (or even a few days before) to do your shopping, or else you’re out of luck.

So no pumpkin for me, and no chance to address the annual question – can you (and should you) cook your jack-o-lantern? Out in foodie land, the jury is still out. Check out these sites:

www.frugalfun.com/f7.html
www.preparedpantry.com/vol3iss10-5.htm
southerncuisine.suite101.com/article.cfm/fresh_pumpkin_puree_for_recipes
www.slashfood.com/2006/10/22/picking-the-perfect-pumpkin/

For me, though, the answer is unequivocally yes. I wouldn’t make a pie out of it, but as a secondary ingredient, it’s excellent. The flavour is very mild and the texture is smooth. At least that’s been my experience. Food writers say jack-o-lantern pumpkin flesh is too stringy, but I’ve made curried pumpkin soup with it, and even added it to chili (it softens the acidity of the tomatoes, and gives a slightly creamy texture, although you can’t taste any pumpkin at all).

Of course, preparing a large pumpkin for cooking is labour-intensive and makes you wonder whether it’s worth it. First, you have to make sure that you have scooped out all the seeds and the soft, stringy gunk on the inside. You can save the seeds and roast them, if you like, but I find those seeds not worth the effort. Most of them aren’t fat enough to really enjoy. Make sure you cut out any discoloured or black spots, or any parts that are sagging, which usually happens around the holes you cut during carving.

You could cut it into chunks and freeze it in an airtight bag, of course, but you’re just putting off the hard work that way. The first couple of times, I cut poor little jack-o into large hunks, and baked them at a low heat (250F, if I recall correctly) until soft. This softened the pumpkin and got the water out – so much water, in fact, that the cookie sheet I used was filled almost to overflowing. Taking the pumpkin slabs out of the oven was tricky and dangerous work. Once I’d dumped the water, though, it was pretty easy to remove the skin and scoop the pumpkin into freezer bags.

It wasn’t a perfect process. There was all that hot water to carefully balance, it was time consuming, and the oven dried out the edges.

I thought there must be a better way, so two years ago, I tried peeling the pumpkin first with a large chef’s knife, a slow and imprecise job. I cut what was left into large cubes and threw them all into a large stockpot. Over low heat, I cooked the pumpkin very slowly. Once it was all soft, I removed batches into a sieve and pressed. This got rid of almost all of that excess water, and made it ready for freezing. Voilà!

It was not to be this year, and it’s frustrating to see all those beautiful pumpkins in the neighbourhood get smashed and go straight into the garbage. But next year, I’ll go early for my multi-purpose orange friend. Maybe do some Christmas shopping while I’m at it.

Chris

Relish It

Sometimes I worry about my love of food. At times it seems almost unnatural - like no one can love baby Hubbard squash that much.

But then I see things like The Condiment Museum online and I know that at least for another day, I am just a normal chick that has a penchant for Butter Pecan Catfish, guacamole and curried corn on the cob.

TCM is a part of our food history and while it might seem slightly obsessional, it is fascinating to walk through the "aisles" and see what we've been eating all of these years.

It makes dressing your hot dog at the ballgame a whole new thing now, doesn't it?

- Stephanie